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2014 Woodward Chardonnay Washington State at 90 by Vinous, Nov-16
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Woodward Canyon Winery
2014 Woodward Chardonnay Washington State
"(51% from Celilo vineyard fruit planted in 1972, which is harvested up 45 days later than Woodward Canyon's estate Chardonnay near Walla Walla; made in tight-grained, air-dried barriques, 20% new, with partial malolactic fermentation and no lees stirring): Bright yellow. Fresh nectarine, lemon, spice and honeyed oak on the nose, along with riper hints of guava and mango. Silky and rich but quite dry, with the wine's hint of tropical fruit character nicely leavened by solid minerality and refreshed by lemony acidity. The Celilo soil is reddish sand and clay with iron oxide, notes winemaker Mott, while on the estate it's more talcum powder-like windblown loess. The pH is a rather high 3.6 owing to the warmth of the home vineyard, but Mott noted that the Chardonnay vines here are planted along an east-west access to avoid the hottest direct afternoon sun. Mott told me that this Chardonnay typically gets nutty in about four years, but noted that a lot of Woodward Canyon customers prefer the wine when it tastes more like old Burgundy."