or_reporting(E_ERROR | E_PARSE); ?>2015 Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling GG at 92 by Vinous, Sep-17
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WINE REVIEW
Vinous
Robert Weil
2015 Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling GG

92
"Musky floral perfume of peony and narcissus mingles with scents of kumquat, grapefruit, papaya and ripe pear. The satiny palate conveys similarly decadent inner-mouth perfume and tropically ripe fruit, with the zest and piquancy of citrus peel rendered forcefully by the wine’s 13 percent alcohol. More aggressive phenolics vis-à-vis this wine’s Klosterberg and Turmberg counterparts are typical for Weil’s Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs, but are here partly assuaged by a glossy palate feel. And while this wine’s formidably sustained finish incorporates a major dose of mineral salts as well as alkali and crushed stone, the effect is more austere and marginally less mouthwatering than that conveyed by either the corresponding Turmberg or this vintage’s overachieving village-level Kiedricher. Not for the first time, I ask myself whether Weil’s Grosses Gewächs unnecessarily sacrifices charm in the interest of seriousness. I am hoping for an opportunity to compare several years old Gräfenberg and Turmberg in parallel."
–Sep-17