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WINE REVIEW
Vinous
Fritz Haag
2016 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett

92
"A faintly cheesy fermentative overlay lifts with aeration to reveal ripe apple, honeydew and quince. Buoyant, silken-textured and generously, lusciously fruity, the palate features a judicious measure of entirely supportive sweetness and an influx of fresh grapefruit and lime that lend delightful animation and eventual refreshment. A hint of almond paste on the finish reinforces the sense of ripe melon and northern orchard fruits, but the wine’s citricity and undertone of wet stone never let up. This clings both soothingly and stimulatingly – an impeccable example of its genre (and one that entirely eclipses its rather inexplicably weak vintage 2015 predecessor). Calling it “super clean and clear,” Oliver Haag predicted that this Kabinett will be a fine ager, and I concur on all counts, other than the need for the nose to shed its slight funk, which will happen within a couple of years. As usual, there is a large volume of this wine, assembled from many different pickings and lots."
–Jan-18